Some places become part of your life without you really noticing it. You find yourself buying the same bread, walking the same route, or making an appointment with the same person whenever you’re back in town. For me, these are the places that have helped Oaxaca feel less like somewhere I live and more like home.
These aren’t necessarily the places I would have put on a list when I first arrived in Oaxaca. They’re the places I found by living here—returning again and again until they became part of my routine. That’s part of how a place slowly becomes a home.
Pan con Madre
I have been buying bread from Pan con Madre since they were in a small space across from Sánchez Pascuas mercado. They expanded and moved to their current location several years ago and now have a beautiful outdoor area where you can eat all the delicious pastries with a cup of coffee. They also have pizza nights!
I am not exaggerating when I say that the bread here is my favorite in the world. It is one of the only things I miss when I’m away.
Along with the best bread in the world, they also make my favorite pastry—a flan brioche that is perfection. It is soft, rich, and creamy with just the right amount of sweetness—perfect with a cup of coffee in the morning.
I also buy my granola here. It’s packed full of nuts, dried fruit, and coconut, and I eat it with yogurt and some fresh cacao nibs.
I generally buy a couple of loaves each time I visit and store them pre-sliced in the freezer. I eat a slice or two every morning with butter and fresh jam from the mercado if I have it.
Escaleras del Fortín
All the locals come here in the mornings for walks and exercise. Many come with their dogs. If you go at the same time each day, you will see the same people, and everyone will greet you with a buenos días.
Climbing the stairs from the street below to the base of the Auditorio Guelaguetza is an excellent free workout. I always go farther on to the top of the auditorium, then stop on my way down to do a few light stretches while enjoying one of the best views of Oaxaca. I’ve also taken my yoga mat up for morning yoga.
Both the view and sharing my morning with locals make me feel connected to Oaxaca.
Eva—Hair Stylist@Hebra
One day I went to see my trusted and talented osteopath, José. While waiting, I noticed a woman inside who was cutting hair, and that’s how I found Eva. Anyone who has spent considerable time living away from their home country will understand how difficult it is to find a good hairstylist.
On my last trip away for a year and a half, I actually took to cutting my own hair because nobody could get my layers right. I bought real haircutting scissors at a Daiso in Chiang Mai and, after watching a YouTube tutorial, began to cut! The results weren’t bad, but after several months of doing my own trims, it was really nice to get back to Oaxaca and have Eva fix all the random odds and ends that result from cutting ones own hair in the tropical heat using mirrors that were sometimes smaller than my head.
I know a good stylist when I meet one, and Eva is a gem in more ways than one.
She used to cut hair from home, but now has her own spot in the charming acquitos de xochimilco. (pictured above)
BONUS! Behind the same doors is an excellent yoga studio. Maria is the owner of Maka Yoga and is a talented and grounded instructor who truly embraces the spirit and philosophy of yoga. The environment is inclusive and comforting. If I take classes anywhere in Oaxaca it’s here.
Find Eva on IG: linsky.eva or hebra_cabello_rostro
José—Osteopath
I found José through a local Facebook group after I suffered a bad injury to my arm. I worked with him regularly over several months and made a great recovery, but I also learned a lot about my body through his informative consultations.
Honestly, one of the best things about José is his ability to listen and then treat accordingly. I now visit him regularly when I’m in town as part of my overall wellness routine.
Find Jose: All of his information is on his website and Google.